Machu Picchu - The Worthy World Wonder

Sunrise over Machu Picchu

Many historical sites claim to be spectacular. You've probably seen a lot of pictures of people in front of the Tower of Pisa, or the Colosseum, or Chichen Itza. But one thing I have found about most of these kinds of places is that the hype has far outpaced the reality. Too many times I have approached a world famous history site only to leave disappointed. As someone who likes to get away from the crowds and the beaten track, I have usually found that the less known sites have far greater value than the tourist traps.

I have only two exceptions to that rule: The Great Wall of China, and Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu is just extraordinary, filled with an unimaginable sense of wonder and occasion. The feeling of watching the sun rise between the noble peaks of the lower Andes, burning away the wreath of mist from the ancient stones, was simply magical. The sense of tangible history, the sheer amount of things to see and places to go in the area, and its incredible mountain backdrops and jungle flora and fauna all make it an unmissable destination.

Seconds away from sunburn



The story of this mountain settlement is still something of a mystery. The name Machu Picchu means 'big brother' and actually refers to the mountain on which it is built. The pointy picturesque mountain is called Wayna Picchu, 'little brother'. As for its purpose, my tour guide seemed very certain that it was once a scholarly settlement like a university, but I have also heard of it being a mountain getaway for the Quechua emperors as well as a fortress.

Built in the late 15th century, it was never discovered by the Spanish conquistadors and remained a mystery to outsiders until a 20th century German archaeologist followed rumours and whispers into the jungle to find Machu Picchu. At the time, a few families were living there, but it is not certain how long they had been there.

An ancient calendar. These walls face two stone slits that align with the rising sun at important times of the year

Today, the jungle has been cleared from the stones and there are a number of different things to see. The first part of the day is getting to the site, which involves either climbing about three million stairs or catching the handy bus to the top. I took the stairs, which was tough but very rewarding once I got to the top to see the sunrise. The downside is getting up at 3:15am to beat the daytime heat. The hour or so of stomping up the staircase is made more bearable by the general solidarity of hundreds of sweaty people who have also woken up too early, as well as the sight of the occasional stray dog that comes along for the walk up.

Once inside the protected area, you get to the main settlement area. This contains many buildings that were once houses, temples, farms, barracks and communal areas of many kinds, many of which have been restored. I was worried about the crowds before I arrived, but in fact the area is very large and can accommodate a lot of visitors without feeling claustrophobic.

The planting fields and some of the houses, with the guard house at the top

Away from the main historical site are two segments of the Chaski Trails, the roads that the Quechua people built across their empire for their message runners (chaskis). One of them leads up to the Sun Gate and forms the final part of the famous Inca Trail. The Sun Gate is the perfect spot to take the classic Macchu Picchu photo with its high panorama of the settlement and beautiful Wayna Picchu. On the other side of the mountain, there is the Inca Bridge trail. This is not for the faint of heart, as it is carved into the side of a cliff face and in some places is only two metres wide. Remember, the chaskis used to run along this!

The Inca Bridge. Imagine having to run that for a job...
You can also climb the two peaks, Wayna Picchu and Machu Picchu mountain. Both of these require a special pass that you must buy with your entry ticket. Unfortunately I felt too ill at the time to tackle the mountains, but I heard they were well worth it.

Getting To Machu Picchu


Hiking: the famous Inca Trail is what many people think of first, but this trail is actually very expensive to do and requires planning in advance. A limited number of people are allowed per day, so places must be booked months in advance and can cost hundreds of dollars.

Instead, I would recommend the Salkantay trail. It is a tough ask with its high altitude and cold weather, but many people I met said many good things about this trail. Cost is around $160AU, taking 4-6 days depending on the route you take. This includes the cost of porters for your gear, which you will be thankful for at altitude. Unlike the Inca Trail, the Salkantay trek takes you to the village of Aguas Calientes below Machu Picchu and you walk up to the site the following morning.

Alternatively, there is the Inca Jungle Trail which is more of an adventure tour than a hiking trail. This includes downhill cycling, abseiling, hiking and other cool activities over 3 days. Cost: $125AU

All of these options include van transport back to Cusco from Aguas Calientes.

Over-exposure is an aesthetic, right?


By Road: I reluctantly took this option due to sickness but I was surprised at what good value it was. Far from my mental picture of a cramped, sweaty experience that missed all the views, it was very picturesque and very well air conditioned. The van ride is 5 hours, at first on a highway then on a gravel track down to the drop off point. I would recommend having lunch here as there are a couple of very nice cheap restaurants. Then there is a pleasant two hour walk between the train tracks and the river to get to your accomodation at Aguas Calientes. The bed can be booked as part of the package for an extra cost or booked separately. The cost includes the bus out, which you can reserve for the next day or the day after if you want more time at the site.  Cost: $12AU, + $5-6 for the hostel.

I'm not kidding about walking on the train tracks

By Train: this is the bougie option that will deliver you straight from Cusco to Aguas Calientes over a few hours. This is also the only option available if you are unable to complete the walk There are three companies with varying levels of price and luxury for an effortless journey to the world heritage site. A key part of the experience is waving mockingly at all the backpackers walking beside the tracks. Cost: $80 - $125AU.

Top Tips


- If you want to climb Wayna Picchu mountain, you need to book your ticket early. They don't let many people go up per day and I heard the bookings were filled up to two weeks in advance.
- You can buy your entry tickets in Cusco, Aguas Calientes or online. If you buy a tour, make sure to check with the operator whether the ticket is included in the price.
- Take your student card! You can get much cheaper entry as a student. Just be aware, they are very strict on checking the expiry date.
- If the stairs aren't for you, there is a regular bus service that can take you up to the site
- If you want to have a more thorough look around, book two nights in Aguas Calientes. I had to hustle around to see everything before catching my van at 3pm and in retrospect I would have liked a whole day.
- Aguas Calientes means 'hot water', so named because of the thermal springs. Don't bother visiting them, they're rubbish.
- Look out for wildlife! I saw monkeys, centipedes and all kinds of birds. Occasionally you can even see Condors in the area.

Most importantly...shop around for your transport. Most of the travel agents are selling the exact same thing but prices can vary wildly from shop to shop. Even though it can be irritating dealing with them, it's worth going to multiple locations to get the best price.

And I'll leave you with the Classic Tourist Picture of Machu Picchu

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