Merida - The Passage of the Souls and the Day of the Dead


This campesino farmer style was very common

I came to Merida mainly to see events relating to the Day of the Dead, and I planned to stay for a week. Unfortunately, this town was not a good place to hang out for that long. Apart from a few quaint colonial streets and the festivities, it is little more than another medium-size town. I also got food poisoning for only the second time this trip which was a bummer.

That said, the Dia de Muertos festivities did not disappoint. I took a bus from Cancun on October 27th with some friends having heard that there would be a parade on in the town that evening. This turned out to be the Paseo de Animas, the Passage of the Souls, where the townsfolk walk from a small plaza to the main graveyard in the south of the old city.

The most glamourous death masks of the night from the local drag scene

When the night fell, we realised that this wasn't an organised parade but a mass of ordinary townsfolk walking down the street in celebration of death and the dead. We passed thousands of people in 'death mask' face paint wearing black and white clothes, as well as stalls set up for the dead.

Usually the food offerings were staple foods plus some treats the dearly departed liked in life

The stalls were set up by locals to celebrate those who have passed, and usually contained candles, pictures, frankincense and plates of food. These constructions would range from a simple table and a few nibbles to large palm huts with feasts laid out for the dead of several generations.

Some stalls had well-dressed folks standing watch over the offerings to the dead - and posing, of course.

In the graveyard, people normally place offerings and spend time at the graves of their loved ones, but unfortunately we spent got there too late to get in.

The origins of the day go a long way back in Mesoamerican and Mayan culture. While the locals I talked to all seemed to give a different answer when I asked where the day came from, after some research I found that it was associated with a more ancient day for the Lady of Death. After colonisation, this became associated with the Catholic Day of All Souls, November 2nd, as a day for staying in contact with the souls who have passed.

For a few pesos we got to be part of the parade too!

It was a strange experience coming to the town expecting a big parade then doing the parading myself, but it was very cool and immersive and I am glad I took the time to see it. Merida itself was not very impressive besides that, so it's on to the next stop, Valladolid and Chichen Itza!

This was a nice part of Merida - an art installation of unknown origin, full of life compared to the Day of the Dead

Nearby Progreso beach - not super great, though I may have enjoyed it more without food poisoning

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