Medellín was a place I had been looking forward to for a long time. Throughout my trip I had heard nothing but rave reviews and people saying I needed to go, but this was also crossed with what I had learned about the city's darker past, particularly in the fascinating book Killing Pablo. It was with excitement and trepidation that I arrived to this city after a nail-biting bus ride from Salento.
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| "The Spartan" - Botero, 1989 |
For Cat and I, our first day sent us wandering around the central city. A short train ride from our accommodation took us to Plaza Botero, a square filled with sculptures made by famous Colombian artist Fernando Botero. His style appears unusual, and it was explained by a visit to the nearby Museo Antioqueno which contains many of his painted and drawn works. The chubbiness makes the characters appear more shapely and sensual in the view of the artist, and this even extends to animals.
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| "Caballero" - Botero, 1982 |
The next day, after some more exploring of the street markets, the owner of our hostel invited us out on the town, and I have to say, this was one of the best nights out I have had on the whole trip. After some beers at the hostel, Cat, the owner, a Belgian guy and I headed to Parque Lleras, one of the main party areas of Medellin in the El Poblado district. For several blocks around the park were clubs, pubs, bars and music venues, but our host knew where the best bit was. At the back of a dark Cuban bar, there was a pool area...turned into a ball pit. Picture a large backyard swimming pool, but filled with kiddie balls, surrounded by palms and loungers. The next few hours were spent diving in the balls, knocking back Mojitos and joining in the spontaneous ball fights that broke out. I wish I had a photo!
The entertainment didn't stop there. After that spot closed, we were walking back towards our hostel when suddenly bottles started flying past us. We whipped around thinking we were under attack, only to see two groups of Colombians having a bar fight outside a club. Only this wasn't a regular bar fight. This was more like a bad 90s high school film. The men were puffing their chests out and trying to hit each other with fists and bottles but rarely connecting, yelling insults about each others mothers, while the women leaned over the mens' shoulders shouting catty insults at each other, in English! No one was seriously hurt that we could see, and the posturing continued down the street as we stumbled past giggling, and some ladies tried to sell the combatants hot arepas.
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| The banners in the distance are for various supporter groups. The most important is REXIXTENXIA NORTE, the core group of fanatics that occupy the north end during home games. |
The next day was obviously a little rough, so we drank juice and lay in the sun for most of the day then went to a football game in the evening for one of Medellin's two teams, Independiente Medellin. This was pretty similar to the game I went to in La Paz: a loud band playing home team songs the whole game at one end, scarce away supporters at the other, lots of men with their shirts off at the home end...the main differences were that it was warm, there were many more people watching, and the home team lost 1-0, so I didn't bother buying their shirt to go with the victorious Bolívar shirt I got in La Paz.
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| Iglesia de la Santa Cruz, Santa Fe de Antioquia. The double-bell style is found in old colonial towns across Colombia |
The next day took us outside Medellin itself to the small town of Santa Fe de Antioquia. When the Spanish first settled Colombia, this town was its capital, but these days it is a simple, small town that stays close to its colonial roots in lifestyle and architecture. It is roasting hot though, which might explain why the milder Medellin gradually overtook Santa Fe as the largest town in the Antioquia region. Cat and I spent a nice afternoon here, walking the pretty streets and chatting with some of the locals.
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| A quiet street in Guatapé |
Our final day in the area was spent in another nearby town, Guatapé. This town is known as one of the most beautiful in Colombia and was a favourite of Escobar himself and the location of one of his most grandiose mansions, famously raided by the rival cartels from Cali in 1993. All the houses in the town are fabulously colourful and are decorated with 3D images at the street level. A charming place in a different way to Santa Fe, it is a great place to spend a day. You can also do paintball in Escobar's mansion, but unfortunately we were both pretty ill and couldn't do it that day.
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| Pimp My Moto! |
Overall, Medellin was one place I really couldn't get enough of. The City of Eternal Spring was beautiful and full of energy, a place where people seemed to have a real zest for life. Unlike Cali, it seems that Medellin is rapidly emerging from the shadow of its murky cartel past, laying the ghost of Escobar to rest as they embrace the dream of peace. Where in Cali we were regarded with suspicion the Antioqueños welcomed us with open arms and were always ready to show us a good time. Medellin very quickly stamped itself on my heart, and it was a place that I could imagine living for a spell. A boy can dream!
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| One of Antioquia's greatest gifts - Bandeja Paisa! Belt loosening is advised. |
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